A seriously off-schedule show is becoming something of a tradition for Azzedine Alaïa. The designer presented his spring ’17 collection in his Marais headquarters well after the Tuilleries tents had packed up for another season.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-full-drop.jpg)
But while it would be an exaggeration to call this collection a departure, it did represent a significant shift, albeit one in harmony with cherished house codes.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-bomber.jpg)
There was definitely a more youthful, sportif vitality – taking in shirting, voluminous dresses and ’90s-inflected zip-front versions, plus a little something not a million miles from an Alaia bomber jacket. This is the designer who, after all, debuted an Alaïa sneaker for spring ’16.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-white-chain.jpg)
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There was a new fluidity as well that came from breezier and lengthier silhouettes but also via the use of abbreviated overlays that appeared to bob down the runway like a flotilla of yachts at Cannes.
That sort of gait comes from the ground up, and whereas some (fools) might consider footwear an afterthought, it is a vital component in creating the attitude that defines a collection.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-white-mesh.jpg)
Azzedine Alaïa’s spring ’17 shoes were flat. Every single last one of them. And we’re talking flush to the floor, pancake flat. Not a flatform in sight. In line with the clothes, they came predominantly in a palette of black and white punctuated by jazzy flashes of scarlet red.
The highlight was a leather-mesh sandal, done in both black and white versions, that bound foot and ankle in supple armor.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-black-2-chain.jpg)
This key shoe looked to the archive and, in particular, a dress from the designer’s 1991 collection that featured a cage-like leather mesh in a grid formation that was anchored by myriad brass rivets so it resembled a piece of metal chainmail.
There were also more delicate iterations – sandals with barely there straps dotted in micro studs or the most minuscule of cutouts. Slightly more robust versions in woven leather encased the heel.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-red.jpg)
Scalloped thongs or double-strap sandals were embellished with those classic Alaïa grommets and came with ankle straps and a subtle gladiator vibe. But they were secured at the rear of the heel with tiny zips to work for a more contemporary Joan of Arc.
Stiletto fans, like Carine Roitfeld, who was seated front row wearing the current season’s eyelet-embellished pumps, needn’t fret, though. The full collection delivers for die-hard heel-wearers as well.
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-asym.jpg)
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-red-dress.jpg)
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/rexfeatures_6673850bu.jpg?w=683)
![Azzedine Alaïa spring '17.](https://footwearnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/alaia-end-chain.jpg)