The show: Creative director Stuart Vevers continued his bold new look for Coach. This season, he took the collection down a more punky route. Its signature floral print day dresses were reworked with sheer fabrics, either as overlays or panelling at the hem. They were worn with leather vests or matching baseball jackets. No doubt the customer is still young, but she has evolved. Goodbye are the days of appealing to middle America preppy mall rats, and hello to the rise of Coach’s new customer, a girl who may or may not be smoking outside instead of being in geography class.
The shoes: The essential punk shoe — the platform boot — was exaggerated and fashion-fied. The soles were clunky and heavy, some embellished all over with metal studs. Kiltie loafers were also given the thick soles, which gave the classic style a new edgier twist. The shoes were finished in metallic leathers like silver or a pale pink. Considering the clunky looks seen at Proenza Schouler and 3.1 Phillip Lim earlier this week, it’s safe to say that chunky is in.
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The verdict: It’s a hard thing to do, making a mass brand cool again. But that’s exactly what Vevers has done at Coach. He’s struck the right balance between being of-the-moment yet decidedly understandable to the masses. Still, these platforms may only appeal to those with substantial ankle strength.
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