Virgil Abloh’s latest Off White men’s collection struck an ironic note in the footwear department. Pristine white sneakers — some styled with tube socks featuring Abloh’s signature striped logo — were certainly more stark white than off-white.
The brand’s fall ’16 offering also included its signature hiker boots, a style the designer offers every season now. The boot was updated in a suede red this time around, proving the fashion-over-function movement continues.
Other new styles included a tan lace-up Chukkah, as well as a black lace-up boot with the Off White striping on the tongue.
Citing Lucio Fontana’s slashed paintings as inspiration for the ready-to-wear, he pinned ripped panels to the back of oversized raw canvas coats. But Abloh took Fontana’s gesture mainly as a conceptual cue for a lineup that mixed tailoring with utilitarian elements.
Crocodile belts by the yard, trailing from the waist, were lined with a yellow lashing strap of the kind used to secure heavy loads. Traditional men’s wear materials – camel, herringbone and plaid – were spliced with fabrics in institutional shades of orange and brown.
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Abloh sprinkled in signature details, like a truncated Nebraska print on a black trench coat, or oversize ring pullers on shearling jackets that looked like surefire commercial hits. But more impressive than any individual item was his unerring instinct in editing the mix.
[With contributions from Joelle Diderich]
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