Santoni Spring 2017 Collection: Milan Men’s Fashion Week

Santoni decided to have a little bit of fun for spring ’17.

The latest men’s collection, titled Dilettevole, focused on “jolly elegance with a tingle.” What that meant was quirkier takes on the Italian brand’s classic dress silhouettes, as well as new graphic sneaker styles. The backdrop instillation for the presentation this season was even made in collaboration with curator Angelo Flaccavento, where guests had to peer through peep holes to see the latest styles. Talk about shoe voyeurism.

“The idea for the shoes is classic-modern,” said Giuseppe Santoni, the brand’s CEO. “Even the more casual shoes are made with the Santoni spirit. Our customer is getting younger and younger, and this gives us the opportunity to present more contemporary designs.”

Santoni Men's RTW Spring 2017 Collection — Santoni spring ’17 presentation at Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

CREDIT: REX Shutterstock.

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Of course, classic shoes with a twist is what Santoni does best, and there was plenty of that. Tri-tone brogues with wingtip perforations and Good Year welts. Woven Beatle boots with leather soles. Printed fabric slippers with kiltie fringing. Crocodile leathers, kangaroo leathers.

The brand’s push toward a younger customer was more evident in the calfskin sneakers, available in black or white, with red striping details. But while it was a less-fussy approach, Santoni’s signature craftsmanship shined through via its unlined, flexible constructions.

“We want to draw attention to our creativity and show that we are capable of making more than classic shoes,” said Santoni.

Other casual styles included a calfskin slipper mule, which was hand-colored and polished in tones of blue. Men’s mules are already proving to be one of the season’s biggest trends (Giuseppe Zanotti even did a sneaker version).

At the end of the day, it’s refreshing to see a shoe brand focus on technical innovations and not just following the rat pack. Santoni is a master at finding new, exciting flourishes — but they know how to make it look damn good, too.