Paris Fashion Week Day 1 Roundup: Y Project, Jacquemus, Koche

Monday night in Paris, Simon Porte Jacquemus of Jacquemus, Christelle Kocher of Koché and Glenn Marten’s of Y/Project all exhibitede their signature footwear styles for spring 2018.

Jacquemus took his classic ronde carré shoes to the next level with a newfound lightness of touch. His signature clunky footwear, with those mismatched square and round heels, came reimagined as elegant objets d’art created out of both wooden blocks and metal spirals. A perfect fit for the show venue — Paris’ Picasso museum in the Marais.

Kocher may have collaborated with Paris Saint Germain soccer club for her ready-to-wear, but her shoes were more suited to the party circuit than the pitch. She continued her relationship with Parisian jeweler Goossens, with new takes on the jeweled heels she debuted last season, extending her repertoire into men’s footwear with jewel-encrusted loafers.

Martens, whose Y/Project label scooped this year’s Andam award, showed canvas variations on the overblown ruched boots that have become his signature. Elsewhere, pretty spiral sandals came with floral embellishments or printed with tiny floral motifs. Some snaked up the legs just like roses winding their way up a trellis.