After several years of ups and downs, Toms is on the upswing.
The shoe company, best known for its canvas slip-on, or Alpargata, has made an effort in recent years to diversify its product lineup to include sandals, espadrilles and casual sneakers. According to executives, that decision is paying off.
Toms’ sales for spring 2025 were up double digits compared to the prior year, according to Jim Kennedy, Toms’ VP of sales in the Americas. And in April, the brand was up 45 percent compared to the prior year.
While the Alpargata is perhaps Toms’ most recognizable look, sales of its non Alpargata products now make up between 60 and 70 percent of the brand’s business. Compared to the prior year, Toms’ dress casual category was up over 70 percent. Specifically, sandals were up over 60 percent and fashion espadrilles were up over 120 percent.
In an interview last week during the FFANY footwear market week in New York City, Toms chief executive officer Magnus Wedhammar told FN that the brand is benefiting from a “pendulum swing” back from clunky, oversized silhouettes to more understated, dress casual looks that can be worn at work or in a more casual setting, something Toms has leaned into in recent years.
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“It’s a macro trend shift from oversized [footwear],” Wedhammar said, describing the pandemic-era focus on large and clunky silhouettes. As wallets tighten, consumers are looking for versatile products that can be worn in a variety of contexts. “When the pendulum swung, it was a natural swing back to low profile silhouettes.”
“It’s not just one thing,” Kennedy told FN. “We’re hitting on a number of areas, which is exciting.”
The shift towards a more diverse assortment comes after several years of challenges for the brand, which struggled to translate its success with millennial consumers to younger generations like Gen Z. In December 2019, Toms Shoes founder Blake Mycoskie and private equity firm Bain Capital ceded control of Toms to a group of creditors to provide debt relief to the shoe company, which had been dogged by negative credit ratings and bankruptcy rumors. Wedhammar came on board shortly after and, among other action items, helped the brand pivot away from relying too much on the Alpargata.
Toms’ recent success has been buoyed by economic conditions in the U.S. Namely, inflation stricken consumers want their shoes to last for more than one occasion and are increasingly opting for pairs that blend comfort and style.
“We’re stretching things over more seasons,” said Amy Smith, Toms’ chief brand and impact officer. “She wants a high quality new product, but doesn’t always have enough to buy all the things in a regular season. Consumer behavior has really evolved a lot and I think dress casual is a piece of that.”
This shift to dress casual still works well with Toms’ Alpargata, a low profile, easy to wear slip on shoe with no-laces and an understated yet recognizable look. Depending on the colorway and style, this product can be dressed up or down. Toms has rolled out updated versions of the Alpargata, including the Alpargata Plus, which features a slightly wider last and more cushioning in the insole for a more durable version of the brand’s most recognizable product. The Alpargata Mule offers a slip-on version of the same core product.
“The consumer is looking for something that’s versatile, something she can wear on multiple occasions. She can wear it when she goes to work and then when she goes to the bar after. And she wants stylish comfort,” Smith said. “She’s not willing to give up on that either. So that’s really what we’re trying to bring here.”
Wedhammar himself admitted that competition in the dress casual space these days is tight. But he sees the strength of the Toms brand as a compelling selling point for consumers.
“We’re feeling like the consumer is really paying attention and valuing brands, because there’s a sea of these this stuff out there in the marketplace, but we’re outperforming,” he said. “I think the consumer is voting for great design but also brand. It’s the combination of the two.”
