As New York Fashion Week continues to move ahead, the spring/summer 2024 season is just heating up as buyers begin to travel to Europe later this week.
While the spring season is typically about looking ahead for what’s to come in the new year, many retailers are expecting to see similar styles of footwear that are already performing well – like ballet flats and women’s loafers – return to the runway. And these expectations seem to fit well into what analysts are seeing industrywide.
According to recent data from Circana (formerly IRI and The NPD Group), women’s footwear sales in July and August of 2023 have seen growth in fashion styles like drivers and loafers, up 18 percent compared to the same time last year, and ballerina flats up 20 percent over the same period. Athletic silhouettes also did well this summer with tennis-inspired shoes up 44 percent and basketball-inspired shoes up 23 percent over last year.
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And with this data in mind, FN caught up with some of the top retailers in New York to discuss what’s actually selling now for fall in their stores and what they expect to see trending for next spring.
With all this talk this summer about ‘quiet luxury’ what shoe styles are driving sales in your store right now?
Will Cooper, SVP/GMM of women’s designer ready-to-wear, shoes & handbags at Saks: In the past few years, ballet flats have almost disappeared from the runway. This season, they are making a comeback with designers reintroducing the classic flat, or adding a fresh spin on the shape such as a mesh interpretation from Khaite. Our customers are loving ballets with some favorites from The Row, Valentino and Chloe.
Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom: It’s been a big sandal summer with sportier silhouettes like the Chanel Road to Sun and Prada Patent Double Strap as current standout styles. As we head into fall, we see customers priming their wardrobes with great lace-up ankle boots, flat mules and collegiate prep loafers. Low-fi sneakers like Adidas Samba and Onitsuka Tiger continue to be seasonless best sellers.
Arielle Siboni, ready-to-wear fashion director at Bloomingdale’s: We are selling a lot of transitional styles – sneakers, loafers, and slip-ons.
Now that summer is ending, what are some of the big trend stories women’s shoes this fall?
Cooper: Each fall, we see a return to boots in a variety of styles, from booties to tall shaft boots. After several seasons of more casual combat and lug sole styles leading the charge, this season customers are looking for a dressier, timeless pair of boots that they can wear for years to come.
De Sole: Fall’s favored hue is red. From bright poppy to rich wine, there’s a red hue for every occasion. Red adds a pop of color for your dress-up moments, and a deep Bordeaux can take over for basic black in your everyday.
Siboni: Moto boots, ballet, velvet, slingbacks and the color brown are some of our biggest investments for fall.
What will be the 2023 women’s shoe this fall?
Cooper: There are so many great styles for fall, but the Prada sling-back kitten heel is definitely a must-have this season. It was once all about the stiletto, but now we’re seeing our customers gravitate towards a lower heel in a variety of materials, shapes and colors. Even brands like Christian Louboutin, Aquazzura and Saint Laurent known for high heels are offering many low heel options.
De Sole: If there’s one key wardrobe essential that has the potential to be worn into the ground, it’s a great pair of black moto or combat boots. These all-weather boot styles give an outfit a bit of edge and feel confidently comfortable for all-day wear. Look to the Chloé fall runway for inspiration.
Another standout style is the pointy toe power pumps. They’re sleek, chic and streamlined. Marrying the minimalist mood of the season, this wear-with-anything heel was ubiquitous on the fall runways. A few pointy-toe power pump highlights include Saint Laurent’s ’80s iteration, Prada’s 3D floral details, Versace’s sharp point, and Tory Burch’s Mary-Jane.
Siboni: The ballet flat and Mary Jane are the number one shoes to have for fall.
Do you think these trends will continue into spring ’24? What have you seen in terms of newness for spring 2024?
Cooper: We are seeing kitten heels trending even further in spring 2024 in a variety of options from mules and sling-backs, to closed toe styles. The color palette across the market for spring 2024 was a range of fresh pastel hues in yellows, blues, lavenders and pinks that will be perfect to add a pop to your wardrobe this spring.
De Sole: Raffia and natural elements like wood and floral appliques will play an important role in accessories come spring. Flats are still key but we’re looking for a little lift again through platforms and flatforms. Minimalist essentials continue to evolve – feeling bohemian nods coming through and a hint of prep and nautical (think soft soled driving shoes and minimalist sneakers).
Siboni: My favorite spring/summer 2024 trend is the minimalist sandal which follows the minimalist cycle we are seeing in ready-to-wear.
Consumers are constantly bombarded by new information. In your opinion, who or what is most influencing trends?
Cooper: Our customers are really interested in interactive content that shows the styling process, rather than just the finished product. In terms of social media personalities, Sofia Richie Grainge has definitely been at the forefront for influencing trends and bringing back the idea of timeless style. She appeals to our younger customers as her style is elegant and sophisticated while still being fun and on trend.
De Sole: We’re no longer influenced by just one channel. We take cues from everything around us—social media, celebrities, our local communities, TV and movies. Look at what ‘Succession’ did to push quiet luxury into the lexicon. Trends come and go faster than ever.
Siboni: Runways, celebrities, and influencers really drive shoe trends on social media.
