The business of footwear was on full display at The Atlanta Shoe Market, which had record attendance at its latest event on Feb. 17-19 at the Cobb Galleria Centre in Atlanta.
Laura Conwell-O’Brien, executive director of the twice-annual trade show, reported a 16 percent increase in exhibitors and a 5 percent increase in retailers as of noon on the last day of the show.
The Atlanta Shoe Market has long been a top destination for independent retailers and regional department stores, however, in recent years, it has also drawn an increasing number of national chains and big-boxes. For instance, buyers from DSW, Anthropologie, Dillard’s, Meijer, HSN and other major retailers shopped the fall 2024 collections from more than 1,800 shoe brands.
The overall mood among attendees could best be described as muted optimism. While most executives reported that spring sales are trending well — and bookings so far for fall product are up — they are eyeing 2024 with a sense of caution. Among their reasons are the presidential election, changing weather patterns, unpredictable consumer demand and even AI — all factors that could tamp down spending on footwear in the coming year.
Watch on FN
Here, top industry leaders share their outlooks for 2024 and the reasons they’re both hopeful and wary about what’s in store for business.
Bob Goldman, founder, Cels Enterprises
Outlook for 2024: “I think we’re in for for two more crazy years — this year and the next. Eventually it’ll even out. I think there’s such an unstable-ness globally. And everybody is still trying to figure out after COVID what the new lifestyles are. And now with AI entering into the equation — we saw a computer shift and now we’re talking about an AI shift. So it will take time for people to really gather together and understand what’s involved.”
The must-have trend: “Consumer mentalities have really changed to comfort. So [Chinese Laundry has] sneakers and softer, more comfortable shoes. We have clogs that are easier to get on — a lot of different things that today’s consumer is really concerned about. And it’s not a matter of the high price tag. It’s a realistic pricing of what she can afford.”
Jesse Edelman, senior vice president & general manager, Sam Edelman
Reasons for optimism: “We’re relaunching the Sam & Libby brand [this spring] and it’s going to be a permanent fixture within the family channel, from Famous Footwear up to Macy’s. And it’s full lifestyle. So far it’s been very well received. We’re just shipping it and we’re very excited to see the early results soon. Also, Circus is taking a turn into new price points, with upgraded materials and leathers, and we’re increasing and improving our distribution.
Strategy for success: “I think we’re seeing a return to stores. So product breadth and assortment offering has been a focus of ours, to make sure that stores look as good as online. It’s hard to compete, with as many SKUs as we put online versus how many fit on a table. But our a key initiative is putting the color back into stores and the assortment.
Lester Wasserman, owner, Tip Top Shoes & West NYC
Outlook for 2024: “We are weathering the storm quite well, our business is healthy and we feel real good about spring. We’re hearing mixed reviews from other folks at the show, but we’ve got great brands and great customers and we feel really positive about both in-store and online.”
Reasons for optimism: “Athletic is still strong, and we have a very, very robust Adidas business, which puts us in a unique place among brown shoe retailers with access to brands like that. We’re still optimistic on Birkenstock — and hopefully we can get some seasonal weather because that’s really the catalyst for sales. We’ve had raw deals with winter the last couple of years.”
Rich Rask, president, Rieker Shoe Corp.
Outlook for 2024: “I’m feeling positive and looking ahead to what’s coming. I mean, the business model has certainly changed. It’s much more year-round and less seasonal, so that’s kind of a bright spot for us because it’s going to remain consistent. It’s not so up and down. Right now, I think everybody’s outlook is good. Will that change with the election time coming closer? Probably — it usually does. But right now, year-to-year, our bookings are up, so that’s a positive.”
Matt Joyce, sales director, Falc USA
Outlook for 2024: “Election years are always going to be tough. But product wins. Customers love to get new exciting things. And as long as you have new exciting product, they’re gonna buy it.”
Mood in the market: “Since COVID, I think everyone has been cautious. You have to take a step back and just reexamine where your open-to-buy goes. That’s just smart business practices.”
Marty Rose, agent & distributor, All Black
Mood in the market: “Retailers are looking for something that’s really different. Otherwise, they’re not interested. They have enough basics, and they still have some stock leftover from previous seasons because of the slower traffic. So they want something completely different and that’ll get more customers into their stores.”
Strategy for success: “We try very hard to come up with a look that no one else has, whether it’s a new heel or a new bottom, we’re always trying to do something different. And if a retailer is buying conservatively, I always want them to know that if they go to an aggressive style, we’ll take it back — because I want them to try it. If it doesn’t sell, I’ll take it back and use it for our website. Retailers want to buy something new and different, but they’re afraid. Very few boutiques today have the money to gamble. So I make it easy for them. And generally what happens, if I sell to 300 people, maybe two will ask to send it back because it’s too aggressive. They are pleasantly surprised that customers will come in and buy the shoes that they didn’t think they would sell.”
